Frequently Asked Questions

We have created the specially formulated Wham Bam PEX Polymer Build Surface which surpasses PEI in temperature resistance, performance, and material 'stickability'. It sticks so well you would have a heck of a time getting the print off the bed without our Wham Bam Flexi Build Plate. Simply remove the Wham Bam Flexi Build Plate from the Wham Bam Flexi Magnetic Base on your 3D printer when the print is finished and flex slightly to pop your print right off!

No, just put the magnetic base on your heated bed and you are ready to go. The only adjustment you may have to do is change your Z limit switch location based on change in thickness of base material.

Yes, we have custom designed the Wham Bam Magnetic Base to be able to work at 150°C continuously. We cannot guarantee every material, but most do not need a bed temperature over 110°C.

Yes it will although we cannot guarantee how strong your printer’s magnet is, and unless otherwise stated, most common magnets used on 3D printers cannot exceed 80-90°C as this is the Curie point at which the magnet will permanently fail. If you print PETG, ABS or other high temp materials, you risk permanently ruining the magnetic base. We guarantee our Wham Bam magnetic base for continual use up to 150°C.

This depends on your machine and your set up. If you have a flat, unwarped and stable heated bed under the glass, it may be in your best interest to remove your glass and mount the magnet to the heated bed. If on the other hand your bed changes form with heat, is warped or not flat, you may prefer to mount the magnet to the glass.

The advantage of mounting to the heated bed is a quicker time to desired temperature, and a definitive flat surface. It will also reduce the weight of the bed, important for machines with beds on moving carriages. The advantage of mounting to glass may be to have a stable and definitive flat surface.

No, as long as you use a heated bed PEX should create enough great stick and hold to keep your layers down without any glue or additives.

Just measure your bed and find the kit size that will be equal to or smaller than your bed size. Learn more here.

It is always best to use 220 grit sandpaper to rough up the metal surface uniformly and remove any excess contaminants. If your surface is painted, try to break through the paint layer with the sandpaper at least partially.

Here is a video on the whole procedure that we recommend.

FDM Printer Installation Video.

From 16:30 onward.

Let the 3M glue on the magnet cure for a full 72 hours before use.

Always prepare the PEX for next print by using either 000 steel wool, CAP, or a red Scotch-Brite pad for about 10 seconds, then clean with 90% or higher IPA and fresh paper towels a few times. This will keep oils and contaminants from building up that can cause bonding issues later.

See this videofor maintenance between prints.

Always wait till the printed model is completely cool before flexing off and never flex when Hot/warm. Never rip or pull off print and always FLEX it off carefully when cool.

After removing parts, always prepare the PEX for the next print by using either 000 steel wool or a red Scotchbrite pad for about 10 seconds, then clean with 90% or higher IPA and fresh paper towels a few times to remove any halos of filament. Do not use other rags, microfiber, wipes or towels.

We highly recommend using 000 steel wool, our CAP or Scotch-Brite 7447 pads and scuff for 5-6 minutes to keep the PEX clean and uncontaminated, improve adhesion, make release more predictable, and to keep a consistent surface for the life of the build plate. Scuffing will help that sticky filaments like PETG so they don't bond as easily while promoting adhesion on others that may want to curl like PLA. Your surface will not be glossy but if done right it will have a very smooth satin finish!

Watch our how to video from Peter, the founder of Wham Bam.

Try common dish detergent or vinegar and clean with water as these help break fats added to filaments with effects. Do not use Acetone as this will damage the surface.

Yes you can but keep in mind you will slightly decrease the magnetic grip. If you often print with filaments that have high shrinkage and curling you may want to mount only to one side or you can use binder clips on the occasional high curl print as a precaution.

Here is our recommendation for removing the build surface from the Flexi plate, you will need: Cardboard to protect your work surface, lots of paper towels, rubber gloves, protective glasses, a spatula, and your choice of acetone, wallpaper stripper, or Goo Gone.

• It's easier to remove the build surface sheet if you put the whole Flexi plate in the freezer for half an hour.
• Once you remove the build surface sheet, then you need to remove the exposed 3M glue. Work over the cardboard and wet the exposed glue well and then cover with paper towels soaked in your remover of choice. Let sit.
• Scrape off glue gunk with a scraper, wiping down the scraper with a paper towel (or scraping off onto cardboard) after each swipe, and repeat until clean.

Wham Bam Systems has done it again! The creators of the original Flexible Build System for FDM machines have designed a specialized Flexible Build System for Resin printers or FBSR!

• No more struggling to pop parts off the build surface.
• No more hitting and scraping on your print head and possibly sending it out of alignment
• No more scratching the paint of your print head
• Reduction of print time by printing flat on the plate
• Wash and clean prints while still on Flexi Plate on fine deformable parts
• Continuous printing with a Double Wham, start another print before you start cleaning the first

The Wham Bam HotBox is a lightweight, easy to assemble 3D printer enclosure. If you want to print ABS, Nylon, PC, and other high-temperature filaments, an enclosure is one of the best upgrades for your machine. Now in 3 sizes to fit most printers!

The entire HotBox line is made of high-grade Nylon 600D fabric with fire-resistant coating and lined with a metallic heat deflecting internal liner that sandwiches around a strong, lightweight honeycomb insulating structure. This helps to control the temperature and reduce sound from your 3D printer. The front panel has a large clear window for maximum visibility and easily lifts up for full access to your printer.

The Wham Bam HotBox is a lightweight, easy to assemble 3D printer enclosure created for users of resin printers to get more consistent results and fewer failures with a better controlled ambient temperature. Almost every resin prints better at specific temperature ranges, especially the higher-performance and exotic resins.

The HotBox is made of high-grade Nylon 600D fabric with fire-resistant coating and lined with a metallic heat deflecting internal liner that sandwiches around a strong, lightweight honeycomb insulating structure. In addition to temperature control, this enclosure helps to trap fumes, reduce sound, and has a built-in port to add fume extraction.

The MUTANT is a manual quick-changing tool system for 3D printers that can be added to most 3D Printers that have a X Gantry Plate that is accessible. The MUTANT handles the mechanical and electrical connections between the 3D printer and the hotend or tool. This means that a hotend or other tool can be quickly swapped without having to reconnect electrical and mechanical connections.

If you mount to one of our Universal X Gantries you would add 12mms to the Y Axis and if you use an interface plate between your X Gantry and the Fixed Plate you will add an additional 5mms. However, in most cases you can also eliminate any loss of build volume by adjusting offsets in gcode, by moving your Y limit switch, or sometimes your Y axis extrusion to accommodate. There are a few guides out there such as: this video guide.

To mount the MUTANT to most printers, you can use one of our Universal X Gantry Plates to mount to your machine, print one of the available interface plates to mount to your current X Gantry plate, or develop your own. The MUTANT was designed to be able to mount to the largest variety of 3D printers, and we have a whole community constantly designing new mounts for new printers, for any new machine requests send to technical support at technical@whambamsystems.com

Not yet but we are currently working on a solution! If you have a printer with a ribbon cable main harness going to the hot end and would like to help us to resolve and/or beta test, please write to us at technical@whambamsystems.com

We have designed 2 Universal X Gantry Kits, one for typical 3 wheel roller bearing setups on a 2020 extrusion, and one for Linear rails mounted top or bottom. The timing belts fall into the most universal positions for most machines. In order to confirm, please refer to the machine fit list to see how others have mounted to your specific machine.

There are 2 power connections rated at 10A each and there are 18 signal connections rated at 3A each.

The main body parts are made from injection-molded, glass-filled Nylon which is great for the durability of movement and insulation plus heat and static resistance.

The MUTANT can operate at temperatures up to 120°C limited only by the PCBs, this should be well over the operating temperatures of almost any machine in any enclosure. (Please note that stepper motors and electronics should not be in an ambient over 60°C.)

The MUTANT is rated to over 10,000 cycles. We use true POGO pins to create a guaranteed robust connection that lasts for over ten thousand cycles.

Yes, you can! Our Stepper Cable Kit will allow you to add a direct drive to a Bowden machine and allows you to switch back and forth anytime. Find the Stepper Cable Kit here.

As long as you can find a way to mount the Fixed Plate to your X Gantry Plate, it is possible. You will need to verify the height difference with the overhang of the Fixed Plate limiting the position it will mount. You can also use our CAD drawings to better verify on your set up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4904718.

If you have an FDM printer, cleaning your nozzle as part of regular printer maintenance is the best way to avoid clogs ranging from minor inconvenience to a full hot-end engulfing blob.

Already have a clogged nozzle or hotend? This kit can help you clear the clog, clean the nozzle, and get back to printing!

Get everything you need for both avoiding and removing clogs in this compact, inexpensive kit.

No. The ULTIM8 JIG is a Wham Bam accessory system for the Morpho printer. The Morpho printer must be purchased separately.

Yes. Wham Bam and Morpho are collaborating during development of the ULTIM8 JIG system for the Morpho UV Printer.

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If the tracking link is not working or doesn't provide any information, it could be due to a delay in the carrier's system updating. Wait 24 hours and check again. If the problem persists, contact us and we can look into the delay.

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